Zanzibar has a population of only 800 000 of which 95% are Muslim. Languages most spoken are Swahili and English.

WHAT TO DO ON ZANZIBAR ISLAND

Lying in a hammock between two breezy palm trees with an unspoiled view of the white sand and the blue ocean might be most peoples dream. Not a bad dream at all but there are a few things for which you might just consider to leave your hammock.

Stone Town, the capital of the island, deserves at least one visit. Run down, like many African towns, it might be but the mystery of the times and tales of sultan rule, is still very prevalent. Visit the Palace Museum for a peek into these times. The Durajani Bazaar is busy and visitors get hustled by the vendors but you will find all kinds of bazaar articles here. For more authentic and typical island products rather walk the many narrow and winding streets.

Before hasting back to the hammock there is one more thing to be done. Do the Spice tour. You will be taken to various areas where the spices are harvested and you will be asked to smell and taste the spices to try and identify it.

If you can spare a few more hours visit the Jozani Forest and see the very cute endangered Red Colobus Monkey.

WHERE TO STAY ON ZANZIBAR ISLAND

You have options from ultimate luxury to very basic. If your main plan is to dive and snorkel as much as possible the basic accommodation is fine for a bed and a shower. On the other hand if you need constant pampering and don’t really plan to leave the resort or hotel go for luxury.

In the Northern part of the island Ras Nungwi and Gemma Del Est come highly recommended. Ras Nungwi is build from natural materials and some of the rooms are right on the beach with brilliant views but also much higher in price. Gemma Del Est is the largest resort on the island. It has more of a European style than the other resorts. A stunning feature is the deck where from, at night, you can watch the fishes swim in the floodlit ocean.

On the East Coast, Mapenzi Beach Club is an all inclusive resort. In a lovely location between the palm trees with all water activities, meals and drinks included in the price, this is an ideal place where you won’t have to worry about spending too much.

For budget accommodation there is Arabian Nights on Paje beach, Amaan bungalows or Mbuyuni Beach Village. Just check with budget accommodations before you book as some of them don’t have hot water for showers.

WHERE TO EAT ON ZANZIBAR ISLAND

The Dhow restaurant in the harbour at Stone Town, situated on a restored Dhow, is such an unique experience. Become part of the past when dhows transported spice and other merchandise around the world. The buffet focuses on traditional Swahili dishes made with the amazing island spices.

Have a cocktail and salad for lunch at Mercury’s on the beach in Stone Town. It is named after Freddie Mercury, the lead singer of Queen, who was born on the island of Zanzibar. They serve a salad Freddie that was apparently his favourite.

All the resorts and hotels have their own restaurants on site.

If you are up to it, the open air market in Stone Town comes alive at night for some fresh fish prepared, on the charcoal burners, while you are waiting.

Many restaurants don’t serve alcohol according to the Muslim believe.

Zanzibar is a tropical paradise where you can restore your energy.

Read more on southern Africa and the Indian ocean islands on Clivir

Blue Bay

Travel is communicating with the people of the island, eating their food, riding in their fishing boats to visit a remote island, staying in their accommodation.

AN OVERVIEW

ROADS

Coming from South Africa with it’s highways and bridges, we smiled a little at the taxi drivers excitement about the new double road from the south, where the airport is situated, to the north of the island. The road is about as wide as the road in front of my house. We understood his excitement when we ended up on the narrow roads running to Grand Baie. It carries a lot of traffic and it looks as if two buses will never be able to pass each other.
You get use to it quickly. Bus fares are very cheap and you can get anywhere by bus but don’t be in a hurry . The bus goes right into the sugarcane fields to drop of passengers. A trip from Grand Baie to Port Louis can take up to 3 hours and it is only about 50kms.

SHOPS

I found the shops in the Grand Baie area had more and better specials on clothes than the market in Port Louis. The market doesn’t smell nice at all and is very busy. It is worthwhile seeing but be careful before you buy. Port Louis is very commercialised and the one day we spend there was more than enough. Wines and spirits are very expensive and is a good trading tool at the market. Smokers should take their own cigarettes. The brands that they sell were completely unknown to me and are not nice. You can buy at the duty free but I found most of the products at the duty free actually more expensive than our normal prices in South Africa.

PEOPLE

The island is beautiful and the people are very friendly and laid back. Everything is “no problem” and all distances are “5 minutes”. Be careful. We ask the owner of the flats where we stayed how long it will take to walk to Grand Baie from Point Cannonaire and he said five minutes. It ended up to be closer to an hour. There are no sidewalks and you have to walk in the narrow streets with cars coming from both ends. Driving is very laid back as well and the drivers are very patient. People park in the middle of the street and nobody gets upset. We found it very safe and walked on the beach long after dark for miles. Don’t attempt this barefoot as there are many rocks on the beach.

BOATS AND WATER

A boat trip to one of the completely deserted islands on a lazy Sunday was wonderful. The skipper of the boat prepares a meal with fish, salads, bread and their very famous jungle juice ( a mix of rum( a lot of rum), pineapple juice, grated pineapple and Miranda pineapple cold drink) When we visited the island it was raining on the way there and everybody got soaking wet. We maybe had to much of the juice to quickly but it was still a wonderful experience. The sea is wonderful for children. With the coral reef it looks like a huge swimming pool with the waves far away. My husband and two boys went deep into the sea. When the little one turned around and saw how far away I were on the beach he started screaming he was drowning. My husband told him to stand up and water didn’t even reach his middle. He was 5 years old.

I will always go back. Hotels and restaurants are expensive. The flats and smaller hotels are very reasonable and rotis ( that you buy from the vendors on the street) at about R2.00 (6 years ago that was about 3 or 4 rupees) and their special French baguettes at about the same price is enough to keep you going.

Historical boat in the Grand Baie Harbour

Biltong Salad

Each Southern African country has very distinct traditional foods that were strongly influenced by the European countries that were imminent in their past, slave trading and indigenous foods. Over the years these dishes fused to create very typical meals that are enjoyed by all people.

In South Africa Indian people came to work on the sugar cane fields in the Natal of that time. They brought with them their knowledge of curries and spices. Today all cultural groups create their own fusion curry dishes. A curry potjie is a good example of this. A potjie or potjiekos is like a stew with a variety of meat and vegetables. It is normally cooked on an open fire.

The Malay people that came to the Cape, as slaves, added their own curry dishes to the tradition. Bobotie came from the Cape Malay culture which is a curried mince dish. It is normally eaten with yellow rice which is flavoured with turmeric or saffron and raisins. Atchar and sambals are condiments to go with curry dishes. Sambals consist of cucumber, tomato, onion and yogurt.

The Afrikaner people created a lot of very typical dishes that have become favourites with all cultural groups. Milk tart is a delicatessen where the filling is milk based and flavoured with cinnamon. Biltong is air dried meat that can be made with beef or game meat and even ostrich biltong has become popular lately.

Milk Tart

In Namibia, the German influence is still very strong and typical German bakeries create the most delectable butter based biscuits and other German pastries. Rauchfleish is German for smoked meat which is another popular food. South African food also had an influence on Namibian food and some of their speciality dishes are Biltong, game meat (Kudu, Springbok and Gemsbok) and Potjiekos. Local beer is Tafel Lager or Windhoek lager. The Mopane worm, a large edible caterpillar, is popular in the northern parts of Namibia and some South Africans also eat Mopane worms.

In Mozambique the Portuguese influence is very strong. Prego rolls (steak roll), espetada (large kebab) and piri-piri chicken are some of the favourite dishes. Cassava (starchy root) and cashew nuts are plentiful. In the rural areas Xima (pap made from corn meal or cassava) is their staple food. Pap is also a staple meal for many South Africans and Zambians, in rural areas. Even urban people love their pap. It is a very healthy meal which is normally combined with vegetables and a little meat, if available. Deuce M or 2M is the local beer in Mozambique.

Mauritian food is influenced by French, Indian and Chinese cuisine. Fish is a staple meal and everybody eats baguettes (French loaf). Baguettes are more filling and tasty than normal bread and very cheap in Mauritius. A basic Mauritian meal, that you will get when you take a boat trip to one of the remote islands, would consist of fish (made on an open fire), salad, baguettes and flambé bananas for dessert. Jungle juice would be the drink accompanying this meal. Rum, fresh pineapple, Miranda Pineapple cold drink and pineapple juice are mixed to make Jungle Juice. Phoenix is the local beer and the most affordable.

Experiencing the local food of a country, with the locals, is always an interesting way of getting to really understand a place and its people.

Read some more about special places in Southern Africa

There are a number of ways to get around in South Africa of which hiring a car would give you the most freedom to travel where and when you want.

Long distance trains are still reasonably safe and first class is relatively comfortable.  The 2^nd and 3^rd class carriages are however packed and very uncomfortable. Intercity short distance trains have become a dangerous option. Train conductors don’t seem to have control over the vagrants and thieves that make these trains their playground.

A few privately run trains like the Outenikwa Choo-tjoe and the Magalies Express are completely safe and a great experience. They only run in certain areas and not too regularly. They are more focused on day trip outings than on transport from one area to another.

Bus services in South Africa are mostly reliable and safe. Inter City bus and Greyhound   service most major towns. It is important to stick with the well known services even if they are more expensive. Many fly by night companies have tried to offer cheap bus trips with unroadworthy buses which resulted in horrific accidents through out the country. The Baz bus is aimed at tourists and has stops at many hostels across the country. Tourists normally report good experiences with this service.

For short in town trips some areas like Johannesburg and Cape Town has a reasonable bus service going to most major areas. These buses can be very full early mornings and late afternoons when workers return home.

Metered taxis are readily available and mostly safe but very expensive.

Mini –bus or van taxis are very cheap but they are more than often overloaded. The drivers are fearless and using them is not for the faint hearted.

Private transfer companies are also available for transfers from and to the airport or they will even pick you up and get you safely home after a night out. They are quite expensive.

The other and easiest option is to hire a car. There are a variety of car rental agencies at all airports and most hotels. Internet bookings are also available for most. Again it is better to go with the reputable agencies like Avis, Hertz and Budget. If you plan to only hire a car to drive around in a specific city where the agency has an office, cheaper options can be considered. For longer distances Avis, Budget and Hertz are better as they have offices all over the country and if you experience any problems along the road they will assist you immediately by exchanging the car. They all have websites with information regarding international license requirements and documentation needed to book a car.

Read more on the exciting places to visit.

Some history, magical forests and a lonely roaming elephant will lead you to the fairytale Garden Route area in the Southern parts of South Africa.  Spend some quality time in Mossel Bay and learn the tale of Bartholomew Dias and his travels through the stormy weathers of the Cape. Try and find the last elephant in the Knysna forest and visit the ostriches in Oudtshoorn.

Experience the ultimate silence of the vast open dessert of Namibia. In Sossusvlei you will find the highest dunes in the world. Dead Vlei is a surreal experience with skeletons of ancient Camel Thorn Trees silhouetted against the golden orange sand dunes.  Have your own pirate experience on the road to Swakopmund with the misty ocean, lined with ships, and the ever changing dunes protectively encircling you.

Somewhere in the middle of Africa is a waterfall that beckons with its massive veil of water tumbling into a gorge since the beginning of times. Fly to Livingstone in Zambia and make your way to the Victoria Waterfalls for a lifetime experience.

Victoria Falls

While in Zambia pop across the border to Botswana and see more elephants in the Chobe National Park than you could have imagined existed. Experience the real Africa on a boat cruising the Chobe River with the afternoon sun on your skin and know you can stay forever.

The tropical Islands in the Indian Ocean would surpass anybody’s vision of paradise. Coral Reefs with sea creatures as colourful as the rainbow, right there for you the greet.  Walk into the ocean with water so warm and calm that you will want to stay just a little longer. Let the white beaches lure you to believe nothing is impossible anymore. Don’t miss the magic of Mauritius. Dive at Inhaca and meet the interesting locals. For absolute tranquility snorkel at Portuguese Island and relive the times of the Sultans in Zanzibar.

Zanzibar

The Big Five and the most impressive and dangerous of the Animal Kingdom awaits you at the famous Kruger National Park. A slow drive along the narrow dust roads will introduce you to lion hunting, an elephant at a waterhole or a hippo sleeping in the water.

While visiting these creatures take time to explore the other areas around the Kruger National Park. For panoramic views, potholes carved through the ages and canyons stretching for miles go to Graskop, Sabie and Pilgrim’s Rest.

Art lovers should make an effort to visit the little Town of Clarens in the Free State Province of South Africa. Feast your eyes on the work of some of the best artists in Southern Africa while sipping a glass of quality wine from a farm in Stellenbosch.

Serious diving and fishing should be done in Mozambique on the East Coast of Africa. With the same warm water, coral reefs and unspoiled white beaches it is the poor man’s island holiday.

Visit these places first and then come back for the rest.

For more detail on each area, including accommodation and restaurants.

The KNP is but one of the beautiful places in the area.  On the way to the KNP you will find many beautiful little towns with their own natural beauty in the form of waterfalls, mountains and forests.

Pilgrim’s Rest used to be a busy mining town, bustling with people after gold was found there around 1870. Today it is a national monument where you can walk down the main street, look at the beautifully restored houses with typical 1800’s architecture, buy authentic African art from the many little shops and have lunch on the veranda of the Royal Hotel.

Restaurant in Pilgrim's Rest

Sabie consists mainly of the Sappi (South Africa’s biggest paper distributor) forest. The area is ideal for tree growing with its mist and regular soft rain. Around Sabie there are lovely mountains, a good amount of water falls and many arts and crafts shops. Sabie is also famous for its array of pancake restaurants. You can have anything from a curry pancake to the delectable dessert pancakes with caramel, ice cream and chocolate sauce.

Misty Graskop

Graskop is even smaller than Sabie but has its own display of art and craft shops and pancake restaurants. The focus in this area is mainly on African Art. Typical African drums, beadwork, wooden spoons and carved wooden animals fill the shops and markets.  Just outside Graskop is God’s window. On a clear day the boats in the Maputo (Capital of Mozambique) harbor are visible. In the parking area you will find a huge open air craft market with very reasonably priced original African art.

About35 Km from God’s window on the R532 is the Bourke’s Luck potholes. The water carved the rocks into smooth surfaced potholes that look like oversized swimming pools.  The potholes are connected with bridges and pathways for an excellent view of this natural wonder. A 180m circular path is accessible to wheelchairs.

Bourke’s Luck is the start of the Blyde River Canyon, the third largest canyon in the world.  The Canyon ends at the Three Rondavels, three grass filled rock formations in the mountain that looks like huge huts.  Rondavel is the Afrikaans word for hut.

Don’t miss these little gems during your travels to South Africa and the KNP.

Bourke's Luck Potholes

More detailed information on individual areas.

Castles at Nutzi

You might just find a fairies living in the massive trees or the last elephant roaming the Knysna forest.

The Garden Route includes the magical coastal towns from Mossel Bay to the Tsitsikamma National Park.

In 1488 Bartholomew Dias threw anchor in Mossel Bay and from there on the was developed as a export harbour. In 1601 the name Mossel Bay came about.

Mossel is the Afrikaans word for a mussel and the mussels gathered here during the spring months are considered by gourmets as the best. In the Maritime Museum you can get on board the life-size replica of the Dias Karavel, he sailed to Mossel Bay in 1488.

From Mossel Bay to Knysna there are wonderful little bays to explore of which Harold’s Bay and Victoria Bay are the most popular. In Victoria Bay the accommodation is literally on the beach and the bay area is secluded. The water is however cold as it is still in the Atlantic Ocean.

Just before Knysna is George which has an airport and lots of handmade wooden and leather products. If your interest lies towards the Garden Route rather fly into George instead of Cape Town, Cape Town is a good 300 kilometers if not more from the Garden Route towns.

Knysna is one of the biggest attractions on the Garden Route. The Heads where the lake enters the sea is said to be one of the most dangerous sea entrances in the world. The John Benn is a pleasure cruise that goes out to the Heads. It is safe enough as it only goes to the Heads and not out into the sea. The Knysna Forest inspired many books and tales. Elephants use to roam freely here in the 1800′s. There are rumours that there is still one elephant roaming in the forest but it hasn’t been seen for a very long time. The forest in itself with or without elephants is a must see.

Just outside Knysna on the way to Plettenberg Bay are the castles at Nutzi. You will have to climb a few hundred steps down to the beach to get a proper view of the castles. They used to be privately owned but most were turned into B&B’s lately. They are quite pricey but a wonderful stay.

Plettenberg Bay is a favourite with South Africans for the Christmas Holidays. The Beacon Island Hotel is very very popular as it is not build right on the beach but nearly inside the sea. The views from anywhere in the hotel is excellent and the five star service adds to the enjoyment.

From Plettenberg Bay the Tsitsikamma Park and Forest lures. The Otter hiking trail is situated here and is one of the most famous but also difficult hiking trails in South Africa.

A magical area with lovely places to explore.

It’s impossible to capture the beauty of Cape Town in words or photos. It can only give a glimpse of the magic.
Long, long ago when the likes of Dias were travelling the seas to discover new countries the Cape was called the “Cape of Storms”.
Cape Town has very interesting weather patterns. Most of the times it is warm and sunny but when the “Suidoos” (the local name for the very strong South Eastern wind) starts blowing you have to hold onto everything you own.

Table Mountain is the best example of this unpredictable weather.
The one minute it’s open and beautiful and the next minute the misty clouds come blowing in.
Within minutes a white tablecloth of clouds rests on top of the mountain.
But it doesn’t matter how bad the weather is, there is alway s something to do.

A big world city framed by the mountain on the one side and the ever changing ocean on the other side.

VICTORIA AND ALFRED WATERFRONT (V&A):

It is very commersialised and expensive but a total treat. The vibrant atmosphere and energy is addictive.

The aquarium is well worth seeing. If you have children it is a must. There is a touch area with a variety of sea plants that can be touched to get an idea of the textures. Feeding times you can watch the sharks having their lunch.

Popular restaurants at the V&A

There are great restaurants and coffee shops for the hungry.

San Marco
This little place offers the most delectable desserts: ice creams, cakes and the Don Pedro’s are to die for.
Everybody wants to sit outside to watch the harbour, the lights and the ships, even in winter. Service is sharp and friendly.
They also offer light meals, e.g. Panini’s, sandwiches etc.

Cantina Tequila
A Mexican restaurant where the favourite dishes seem to be the combos which includes taco’s, ribs, chicken, calamari etc.

TABLE MOUNTAIN

The cable car is an experience on its own, with a rotating floor and magnificent views when going up and coming down the mountain.

Phone in advance or check the Table Mountain website when you plan to go. It is not always open.

The weather can change in a second from great to foggy and cloudy. On the top is a restaurant and shop with great views.

HISTORICAL BUILDINGS

Cape Town is full of historical buildings that are worth a view and great for pictures. In the famous Castle of Good Hope, you’ll find examples of beautiful antique furniture. You can also experience the dark dungeons where prisoners were kept. It’s horribly cold, pitch dark and small. You can take a guided tour at the Castle and get all the info on Jan vanRiebeeck, the Van der Stell’s, Lady Anne Barnard and everybody that was involved in the beginning years of the Cape.

There are also numerous historical church buildings. Take a drive through the city area on a Sunday or Saturday afternoon to visit all these buildings. During normal business hours the streets are too busy to find parking.

KIRSTENBOSCH BOTANICAL GARDENS:

Don’t miss this. You can spend a whole day and still haven’t seen everything.

You will only find indigenous South African plants likeProtea, Fynbos etc.
There is a path up Table Mountain from inside the gardens. We climb for a while but it is quite steep and we had no idea how long it would take.

I wouldn’t advise this unless you have all the info on hiking up to the top of the mountain.

The weather can change very quickly and then it is dangerous to be somewhere on the mountain.
On Sunday afternoons (late afternoon) in summer you can attend musical concerts in the botanical garden.
There is a nice restaurant or bring your own picnic basket. Lots of space for a picnic.

MALAY QUARTER

The old Malay quarter or as it is called nowadays the Bo-kaap is worthwhile seeing.

It is basically in the city. Drive in Wale street to Green point. The area has been upgraded in a lot of places and property prices are rising sharply. It is conveniently located and has a great atmosphere. The houses are painted in bright colours and look festive. Streets are still cobblestone and narrow. From the top the view over Cape Town is amazing.

CAPE POINT:
Contrary to some beliefs this is not where the two oceans meet. The actual meeting point is at Agulhas. More about this in my Hermanus blog later,
Nevertheless Cape Point is an incredible experience. The last time we went there Chapman’s Peak was closed due to rock falls and we took the road pastKommetjie and Scarborough. The whole area is a nature reserve. There are 2 200 different plant species to see, as well as a lot of smaller animals.
You can take the funicular to the point or take a walk. It is a bit of steep to climb but do-able. The view is absolutely amazing. Stop at the Dias cross in the reserve. It is a big stone cross that commemorates his achievements.

GREAT CONSTANTIA: THE OLDEST WINE ESTATE

The history of the farm dates back to 1685 when it was granted to the first Governor of the Cape, Simon van der Ste l, as an experimental farm for agricultural produce. Van der Stel named the farm “Constantia” and the produce of vegetables and fruit was supplied to ships that called in at the Cape.

the main house is an excellent example of Cape Dutch architecture. Today it houses a cultural history museum, portraying the early years of Groot Constantia.

You can taste and buy the award winning red and white wines at the cellars. There are daily wine tours, tasting and buying of wines.

CLIFTON: THE PLAYGROUND OF THE RICH
Clifton is not for those scared of heights and narrow roads. The houses seem glued to the cliffs. They park on top of their roofs or so it seems. Any builder that can build a house here deserves a reward.
Most of the houses are more mansions than houses and are worth a few million.

Clifton is especially famous for its beachesbut the water is still cold like the rest of the Cape waters.
The small rock pools are excellent for children to play in and obviously not that cold.

Unfortunately it is also the ideal spot for beach parties and some of these areas can be very dirty.

CHAPMAN’S PEAK:

It is the most incredible view. The view is worth paying the R22 toll fee on this road. You don’t need to come back the same way. FromNoordhoek you can take the Muizenberg road back to Cape Town. From Hout Bay go back past Landudno and Camps Bay which is the other beautiful coastal road

KALK BAY:

A tiny little place a few kilometers out of the city. The shopping experience is very different form that at the V&A. Here you will find individualistic little arty shops each with it’s own character and style. If you are looking for something out of the ordinary, away from mass production, you need to visitKalk Bay’s main street. Cape to Cairo and Papagayo stands out but they are all worth a visit. The shops are so nicely decorated and painted in vibrant colours. There are also nice art galleries, a theatre and restaurants.SUNSET ON SIGNAL HILL:
Instead of going up to the cable car take the road to the right and drive up Signal hill.
Lovely sunset.

CENTURY CITY:

Century City is a bit out of the city close to Milnerton. It is a lovely centre with each and every shop you can think off. Less designer stores than at V&A and obviously not that expensive.
The MTN science centre is a hit with children. You can buy a family ticket and spend the whole day there. You get a stamp on your hand and can move in and out as you please. Make sure you attend the “cameraobscura ” session. It works with mirrors and even though you are inside the building you can see the reflections of the cars moving, the movement of the water in the canals and whatever is happening outside.
All the other mall things are there like movies, places to eat, lots of chain stores etc, etc…..

MORE RESTAURANTS AROUND CAPE TOWN

BLUES (Camps Bay)

Sit outside with a beautiful view over the beaches of Camps Bay and the very busy and interesting street running next to the sea. You’ll see anything from a top of the range Ferrari to a “gedaan” (run down) taxi, a luxury tour bus to an old beetle.
The menu offers seafood, pasta and a few grill goodies like hamburgers, lamb rib, steak etc.
Nice cocktails and wine list. Excellent service.
The calamari with Cajun spices was soft, tasty and big. It comes with rice but the waiter offered to do it with chips. They are very flexible with the menu. You can order a single prawn extra with any meal if you desperately need a prawn.
Their all time best dish is gnocchi with pesto and green beans. They make the pasta and the pesto themselves.

MARINER’S WHARF (Hout Bay)

There is a beautiful upstairs area for a sit-down meal with spectacular decor. It opens at 12 in the afternoon. If you are too hungry to wait go to the open area downstairs. Get a box of real fish and chips and have a feast.
FARMSTALL, NOORDHOEK
On the other side of Chapman’s Peak is Noordhoek. The Farmstall has all the traditional South African cakes and pastries, like scones and milk tart.
This is but the tip of the iceberg and just a few of the exciting places to visit. Explore and feel like Dias with every new discovery.

Maputo is the capital of Mozambique. The sea is stunning, the sunrises are wonderful but unfortunately the beach is dirty.

We had a magnificent view from our balcony in the Holiday Inn. The hotel is exquisite and looks a bit out of place between the war ruined buildings surrounding it.

Maputo in itself is not really a tourist city but they are trying to improve tourism by building new hotels and keep the old colonial ones like the Polana in good shape.